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Thermal fuses, heating elements, gas igniters, and the clogged vent that mimics them all — plus what each fix should cost.
A dryer that tumbles but won’t heat is almost always one of: a blown thermal fuse, a failed heating element (electric) or igniter (gas), a bad thermostat — or a clogged vent pretending to be one of those. Repair forums are full of owners who replaced parts when the real problem was lint.
A blocked vent traps heat until the thermal fuse blows — by design, since that fuse is a fire-safety device. Replace the fuse without clearing the vent and it blows again in a month. This is also why the vent matters beyond your wallet: FEMA counts ~2,900 residential dryer fires a year, with failure to clean as the leading factor.
Thermal fuse or element: $150–$300. Gas igniter: similar. Professional vent cleaning: $100–$200 — and it makes clothes dry faster and cuts energy use immediately. These are all well inside "repair, don’t replace" territory on any dryer under ~10 years old (national average lifespan: about 13 years).
Pull the dryer out and feel the exhaust flow outside with the dryer running — weak airflow means vent first. Check the lint screen and clean it every load. If the drum doesn’t turn at all, that’s a belt (~$200), a different and equally fixable problem.
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