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A freezer that hums and runs but won’t get cold points to airflow, frost, dirty coils, or the sealed system. The diagnostic ladder from free to full repair.
A freezer can run constantly and still fail to freeze. The compressor and fans being on tells you there is power and a motor; it does not tell you cold is being made or moved. Work the cheap causes first — most "running but warm" freezers are an airflow or frost problem, not a dead sealed system.
Confirm it is not in demo/showroom mode (a surprisingly common "fix"), that the door seals (the dollar-bill test: close the door on a sheet of paper — it should tug when you pull it), that vents inside aren't blocked by packed food, and that nothing is propping the door ajar. Then clean the condenser coils — dust-clogged coils make a freezer run nonstop without cooling.
If you see heavy ice caked on the back inside wall, the defrost system has failed and frost is blocking the evaporator. The fix — defrost heater, thermostat, or control — is in the $150–$350 range. A failed evaporator fan (no airflow over the coil) lands in the same band.
If the coils are clean, the defrost works, the fan spins, and it still won't freeze, you may have a refrigerant leak or failing compressor — $400–$1,000 work that requires EPA-certified handling under Section 608. On an older unit this is often a replacement decision under the 50% rule.
Run the free checks and clean the coils — that alone fixes a lot of freezers. If it still won't cool, the next steps need a meter and (for sealed-system work) certification. When it is not an obvious airflow or frost fix, have a vetted local pro diagnose before you spend on parts or a new unit. Find freezer and refrigerator repair near you.
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