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A washer that fills with water but won’t drain or spin usually has a clog, a pump, a lid switch, or a drive problem. How to diagnose it and what each fix costs.
If the tub is full of water that won't leave, it is a draining problem, and the cheapest cause is a clog. Many washers have a coin trap or pump filter (often behind a small front access panel) that catches socks, coins, and lint. Clearing it is free and resolves a real share of "won't drain" calls — check it before paying anyone.
If the filter is clear but water still won't go, the drain pump is the prime suspect — a worn impeller or a small object jamming it. A failed pump is one of the most common washer repairs, typically $150–$350 installed. You'll often hear it humming or grinding while failing to move water.
A washer that drains but won't spin is usually a safety interlock doing its job: a failed lid switch (top-load) or door lock (front-load) tells the machine the lid is open, so it refuses to spin. A worn or broken drive belt is the other common cause. These are economical, in the $150–$350 band.
If the pump, switch, and belt all check out, you may be looking at the motor coupler, the drive transmission, or the control board ($250–$575). On a front-loader, also rule out a clogged drain hose or a failed pressure switch (which tells the machine the tub is empty).
Clear the filter and check the load isn't unbalanced first. Beyond that, a washer that won't spin or drain involves the pump, electronics, or drive system, and a misdiagnosis means buying the wrong part twice. If it is not a clog you can clear in five minutes, have a vetted local pro pin down the failed component. Find washer repair in your city.
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